Spain Day 8 - Belchite to Zaragoza


Despite it needing us to retrace our steps a little, it seems silly not to stop in Zaragoza the 3rd, 4th, 8th or 10th biggest city in Spain according to where you get your info. We decide to combine this with a campsite stop as there is a municipal one with mixed reviews on the edge of the city and we can sort ourselves out a bit. 

We packed up in Belchite after croissants from the local bakery and headed off , deciding to take the ‘slow road’ which crosses some mountains and passes by the village of  Fuendetodos, birthplace of Goya. Yet more spectacular views of vast landscapes that are pretty much un-habited. Passing closer this time to the giant wind turbines, each of which seemed to have a service road leading to its base. It was tempting to follow one, as they appeared unrestricted but we decided to press on.  

Back on our road to Fuendetodos we arrive and find the village deserted … lots of open shutters but no signs of life.  Walked up tiny streets to Goya’s birthplace, a small unremarkable house with an open door, there was a member of staff and one other family present and we were able to wander around the house on our own. Well kept and more of a site of pilgrimage than anything but interesting to see inside one of the tiny town house doors and find more space than expected. As we left the guide asked if we wanted to see the etchings museum. When we said that we did she locked the door to the house and walked us up the hill a little to the museum, which she unlocked! For 3€ each we had solo acccess to five rooms of engravings … 


The etchings were fascinating as unlike much of his galley displayed work elsewhere, these were personal works not commissioned and many were somewhat macabre images. Interesting to ponder whether they reflected personal views or those of wider society. Beautiful space and lovely to walk it in peace.

We had a bit of a wander around the rest of the village including climbing the steps to the rather oversized village church. There was nothing else open, but there was plenty of evidence of other artists living here, some quite quirky!



Back on the road we take the mountain pass to Zaragoza.We drove past a civil war sign and followed it briefly to a gun emplacement/look out well-preserved and obviously well placed location with great views over long distances. 


The road itself is popular with cyclists at the weekend but I think we were later than the masses and they had little impact on our drive. Our first proper taste of high twisting mountain roads, but all two cars wide and almost traffic free so no stress.

The pace changed very quickly as we hit the outskirts of the city to find our pitch in the municipal campsite. Large site but not too busy and has the facilities we need. G was first to the showers and came back saying how great it had been, hot and easy, though changing space in the cubicle was tight. Unfortunately 15 mins later my shower was freezing cold!! Desperate enough to do it anyway but felt a bit Wim Hoff!! 

Off to the city centre. We were told the buses left every 20 mins but I think we got unlucky! We arrived at the stop (only five mins from the campsite) and I used a qr code on the sign to get an update … 16 mins to next bus 14, 13,12, 23, 18 , 26…. Eventually it came after 40 mins! 1.60€ to city centre and the driver was on catch up. Before we’d paid he was driving to the next stop whilst counting out our change… far too many roundabouts for a speedy journey … wasn’t much fun! Arrive at Puerto del Carmen after about 30 mins and just a ten min walk until we were in amongst the old town. 

Lovely feeling town and arriving as the light was dropping was just perfect! We walked around the old buildings and over the bridge , then crossed back on the next bridge along. Near the market hall and old Roman walls we climb the tower in the tourism office ( Five stories!), free entry, to get a great overview of the different areas and key buildings. By the time we came down it was dusk so we walked across the square past the floodlit basilica and back to the bridge. Decided to eat out before we returned and went in one of the many bars off the main square. 







By the time we left the city was bustling with Saturday night revellers, the first time really that we’d seen the Spanish nightlife we’d expected … everyone of all ages out walking, shopping, eating and drinking. We retraced our steps to the bus which arrived within five mins and was a less stressful journey. Quick stop at the supermarket next to our bus stop and we were back in the van for the night. 

Miles driven so far: 410 

Steps today: 17,654

Overnight : Zaragoza Camping 21.70 Euro (without electricity) 

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Day 41 - Riberduero to Embalse de La Cuerda del Pozo

Image
 Waking to sunshine and cuckoos, definitely spring now. Really hard to leave with the sun shining so we take our time doing all the necessary tasks when you are taking advantage of staying at a campsite.  A little later than we should leave we hot the road but only for a couple of miles to the limestone castle in the adjacent village of Penafiel. On paper this is a walkable distance but being at the top of a high hill the drive is very welcome.  The castle is unlike any other we’ve seen. It sits along a narrow ridge and to do this had to be built long and narrow. It’s almost ship like with one tower in the centre like a giant funnel. It’s also unlike any other in that the only way to visit it is on a Spanish speaking guided tour and on a ticket that includes seeing the ‘wine museum’ that is housed within the castle walls (€6.60). We tack onto a tour but are unable to keep up with the Spanish, so wander at the tail end of the group enjoying the sunshine and trying to work ...
Read more

Ready to go!

Image
Seems a long time since we were heading back from Scotland and talking about avoiding some of the British winter and taking the van to Spain, but nine months later we are about to hit the road.  The last couple of weeks have been filled with packing and re-packing to make the most compact version of everything. With a vague idea that we might keep going for six weeks and temperatures that could easily stretch from single figures to 30+ deciding what is needed is a challenge! Ten years on I’m still managing to find tiny mods that add space (like the magnetic knife rack holding little metal boxes) …and adding more fairy lights. The long ferry journey will be a new experience. Graham lacks 'sea legs' so it remains to be seem how crossing the Bay of Biscay will go. Particularly as they’ve brought the sailing forward tonight due to impending high winds! There’s also the added complication of having to have some things in a bag to take to the cabin …this destroys my van organisation...
Read more

Spain Day 5 - San Sebastián to Pamplona

Image
Bright sunshine to wake to at last! Off to Pamplona. Mostly motorway but we moved to the smaller road for the last 20 mins or so. Blue skies and snow capped mountains visible as we climbed. Stunning roadside mirador opportunity where we also got our first view of circling vultures and saw trees filled with nests of processionary moth caterpillars high in the pines.  Finally got a chance to make a brief visit to a bigger supermarket and fill up the fridge and the fuel tank just before we reached the city. The aire here is very new, on the outskirts of town next to the fire station, but only a short walk away from the centre (with a glass lift to save the climb). Google wasn’t happy with the address but got us near enough to follow the signs. It’s the first time that we’ve seen lots of English vans, mostly returning from winters on the ‘costas’. It’s nice to chat about their recommendations and experiences. The aire seems to be somewhere that young people hang around and smoke weed w...
Read more