Day 25 - Cabo del Gata to Almeria
Great stay but a small break in sleep at 3am when high winds meant that the roof came down as the sound of the canvas flapping became too much!
Decided that as were we’re headed to the coast we’d pack up first and breakfast at the sea. Turns out this was the right decision as the drizzle cleared whilst we were driving and it had brightened up on our way up the road to the Cabo del Gata. No bakeries to pass on the way so stopped in a village Spar where they sold the most enormous croissants, so, with a full mug of coffee and sat out of the wind, we could watch the sea crashing on the rocks.
The lighthouse and mirador were easy to reach by road in this direction, apparent when we saw a coach party arrive as we left! Beautiful views even if the wind made it a bit choppy out at sea.
The road that leads out to the headland runs between a beach and a salt pan and was pleasantly bleak… one of my favourite types of landscape!
Leaving Cabo del Gata we were back in covered farming territory, fields as far as you could see with fleece covered ‘glasshouses’ difficult to see in but when you could they all appeared to house tomatoes and we saw a number of packing facilities that suggested this was a really significant industry here.
From time to time the wide flat ‘dunes’ areas returned. Now with added flowering agaves which looked great against the moody skies as the sun started to come out.
The road into Almeria was welcoming, lined with palms and wide pavements and was quite straightforward to find our planned park up beside the ferry port.
Once parked we headed into town with the aim of getting to the Alcazar high on the hill but en route passed the Andulcian photographic gallery by complete chance. The exhibition poster looked promising and as there was an hour before it close for lunch we popped in where we were amazed to discover not only was is free to enter but the photographs were just brilliant, based on locations recognised as persecuting witches in the past, with portraits of various modern women whose independent thinking and unorthodox views might have described them as witches if the same measures were used now. A great idea executed absolutely perfectly and displayed in a beautiful setting. Just fabulous!
We then returned to our planned route via the newly renovated Alcazar garden and found the Alcazar itself. Again completely free to enter. Almeria is just great! The first courtyard is a beautiful 1940s mock up of a moorish garden, likely inspired by the Alhambra, but not authentic to any point in the castles prior history. Further on there is some rather more sensitive restoration and some current archaeological works. Together with great views for miles it is an outstanding visit, we loved it!
Back to the town where a visit to the tourist board confirmed we were on for a late night as there were three Easter parades taking place in the evening. So back to the van for a bit of a rest first.
The port carpark is brilliantly close to the Main Street so we leave for town just before the first parade is due to pass. Somehow we get a good spot on the bend despite being a little late. It was a first glimpse of ‘penitants’ walking to music of a mixed band and wearing red hoods. The theme was ‘coronation’ and it seemed to have largely young people taking part. The ‘float’ with a statue being carried from below by unseen people who were applauded for their careful cornering skills done with tiny side steps.
Within 20 minutes of the first parade ending the second one ‘love’ followed. Similar in feel to her first but this time with blue hoods.
The penitents where carrying candles which would have looked great now that the light was dropping but the wind was having none of it and trying to relight them became the main activity every time there was a pause.
There was then quite a gap before the ‘Forgiveness’ March. With a 2am finish we’d decided to move closer to the start this time to not be up too late, but we still had some time to kill so rather than shopping which seemed the most popular option we went for the alternative Chocolate and Churros.
It was heaving the start point when we try to get there so we followed the route until we could get closer to a road. It already felt very different without music but with a strong, reverberant drumbeat.
The participants were dressed in black. Hooded but in rounded hoods not in the pointed hoods used earlier and were largely barefoot and carrying lanterns. The atmosphere was incredible. All onlookers stood absolutely silent as they passed. Occasionally a bell would sound and they would stop still and face each other in lines, but mostly walked incredibly slowly.
The ‘float’ of Jesus on the cross was proceeded by clouds of swinging incense burners. The whole event was really dramatic and very intense. As it passed we made the decision to move further along the route and watch it pass again. In the Main Street all street lamps were off and it was only lit by the flames from the lanterns. We headed back to the van about 12.30 with the March still having another 90 mins or so to run. What an incredible experience.
Back at the port it was incredibly windy, enough to rock the van. I was very tired and very achy, probably one of our most tiring days… every part would have been a highlight on its own. It really was packed. There were plenty of other vans overnighting so we weren’t alone in being shaken about but on the plus side it did mean we couldn’t hear the engines of the moored up ferry alongside.
Miles so far: 1272
Steps today: 21,950 (and an awful lot of standing too!)
Overnight: Almeria port car park €6.55 for 24 hours (Bargain!)
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