Day 38 - Sierra de Guadarrama to Segovia

Beautiful sunny morning. G woke early and I was keen to doze so took himself off around the village for look around. As noted yesterday it’s small, pretty and alpine looking but very quiet, no shop or bar and a storks nest on the village square. Appears to be lots of good walking from here so noted for a future visit.. great stop!

Been lovely having quiet nights in the countryside but downside is no shower so a full bucket wash using the spring water source in the car park ( after warming it!).

Packed up and last look round to discover there’s a stork landed right behind the van. Their strutting walk is funny to watch so that’s what I do for a bit.

Drive out through the village which still feels like we are missing a major road as many streets are the same width as the van. We retrace our steps to Rascafria which is decidedly bigger with shops and restaurants but looks like it’s in ‘off season’ mode as most are closed. Then back on our mountain road again.

It’s a beautiful day , clear and bright and views are brighter than yesterday. It has a different feel now the lower slopes are covered in pine trees and it’s much greener with just the snow covered mountain peaks visible behind.


The road is really high, 1800m+ most of the way, and seeing snow thawing beside the road is becoming quite common. It feels like some of the cyclists out today might be professionals making the most of the snow free roads early in the season. Not a ride for the faint-hearted, steep, twisty and high altitude.


At Puerto de Navacerrada we find ourselves at a ski resort albeit one with very little snow. The runs have defrosted pretty much and the ski lifts are packed up but worth a walk around and enough snow left to throw a snowball or two. We could also glimpse the plains of Madrid beyond the slopes.

 More pine forest followed as we descended to Segovia, the suburbs not so attractive but offered easy access to a supermarket stop, so the fridge is full again but the rain has started.

The park up is on the edge of town next to the bullring. It’s compact and quite full but we find a space as the rain pauses and run into the couple we’d met in Cuenca who are on their second day here. Had no idea they were heading here so bit if a surprise! 

All set up and the rain kicks in. We decide to sit in the van for a bit so kettle on and bananagrams out for the first time this holiday. One win each and the rain stops so time to head out. The town is around 30 mins walk and occasional drizzles all the way so brolly goes up and down all the way. After about ten mins we are walking beside an old wall that soon becomes arches and we realise that it’s the aqueduct. We walk along side it all the way to the main square during which time it goes from being around 20ft high to 200 … it’s a jaw dropping site and incomprehensible how the Romans managed to build it with individual dry granite stones and a 1% drop along its length. 

After viewing it from all angles and heights we follow it’s underground route to the main square which is deserted in the drizzle and beautiful.


 Despite being dinner time one of the restaurants is quiet enough that they are happy for us to just have coffee… which then became Rioja, keeping warm from the rain!

About 8.30 the rain has stopped and we decide to walk. Two mins til we pass the cathedral and it’s open! Hadn’t realised that it would be a possibility this late but we buy our ticket (6€) and go in. The recommendation is that we head to the cloisters first as that area is first to close but can’t help but stop to take in the vastness of the main space as we pass through it. 

The cloisters themselves are lovely, lit beautifully against the darkening sky we walk two sides and see a door to a ‘treasure’ room. Now most churches seem to have these opulent displays of gold and silver fussy stuff (hope that’s not too offensive) but these we’re genuinely interesting and well displayed. There were relics from the 16th century and a display explaining the process of identifying remains found interred in a small chest. Fascinating stuff. 

Back to the cloisters and further round another sign pointing to the gallery …. again out of my comfort zone, in most general art galleries I fly though the religious medieval bits but there were so many that were great and whilst the quality varied they were beautifully displayed and were worth time to enjoy. 

Back in the main cathedral space we had just 30 minutes before it closed and we were the only visitors! There was a door to a rear courtyard which had a great view of the tower. Although the staff were slowly turning off lights etc it was worth the inconvenience of not seeing everything for the pleasure of having the whole place to ourselves, great visit of a great space.




Now dark we wandered back down the aqueduct. The city looks great now that the rain has stopped and everything is sparkling. Took way too many pictures on our walk back to the van.



Miles so far: 2201

Steps today: 14953d

Overnight: Area Autocaravannas, Segovia, free  



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