Day 27 - Puente Maceira and Santiago

 

Beautiful morning! Expected dog walkers this morning but still all alone, so still today and peaceful. By far the warmest morning so far and incredibly still, so already getting very warm. 

The tide is low and there are birds wading, it’s lovely to sit and watch from inside the van and even lovelier when I realise there’s a spoonbill near by filtering water on the shallows. 

Tempting as it is to hang around, we are on the road not long after 11 after stopping in the nearby village to drop our litter pick from the shoreline into the recycling bins. Feels good to have left this one much cleaner than we found it. 

It really does feel like spring now, there are locals planting veg in allotments , the trees are all green and there’s even blossom to be seen in fruit trees.

It is still surprising when five minutes later we pass the eroski hypermarket , hard to believe that only a few minutes separate the chaos and the calm! 

We are going to start with anther of Spains ‘prettiest villages’ which sits between us and Santiago. Pontecesco Madeira is tiny but the others on the list haven’t let us down so worth a small diversion. 

 We don’t even see a sign for it until just before we happen upon its famous Romanesque bridge and Google directs us across it, which we do despite it feeling very wrong and find a parking space close to the mill. 

We get out in awe of its beauty, it has to be said that the sparkle on the river is helping but it’s gorgeous! There’s a weir before the bridge so all you can hear is crashing water and we have an explore around the mill buildings before walking to the top of the village. Here we notice a ‘residents only’ sign and realise we should have followed our instincts about the bridge (though we didn’t pass a sign on our route in across the river). 

Graham goes back to the van and drives it across the bridge again finding a carpark on the other side, which feels less naughty! Whilst he does so I chat to a very happy Camino walker who recommends the bar by the waters edge where he’s just had a beer to help him on his last leg. 

We plump for coffee rather than beer but he’s right in that it’s an idyllic spot and there are a dozen or so walkers doing the same. 

When we leave the first road we travel on is narrow, but so green and beautiful in the sunshine. Luckily no one comes the other way or I’m not sure how that would work! We’ve noticed a lot of wisteria glowering today and there’s even some ‘wild’ in the trees  another very dpring-like journey. 

When we approach Santiago we do so through the university buildings. There are a few streets described as parking possibilities nor far from the cathedral and we are trying our luck! And we are lucky! Graham manages to slit into a space on a side road less than ten minutes from the cathedral. It’s just a short uphill walk to until we emerge in the main square. 

 

The building is vast and really impressive but what makes this special is the constant stream of arrivals. So many stories you’d love to hear. 

 A group of six or so enter together squeezing each others hands in a chain and as they approach the middle of the square embrace, there are individuals who cross themselves as they approach the cathedral and others that whoop whilst school groups are excitedly getting the picture they need for the ‘gram. 

Feels a little lame ( no pun intended) to be resting after hobbling the ten minutes from the van! The edge of the square is lined with people resting on rucksacks in the shade. Every type of emotion can be seen somewhere! 

 We circle the building to enter the cathedral, the visitor entrance is at the side so you have to walk a short distance before reaching the altar , there’s a lot of gilt involved! It’s a serious statement piece but again feels a bit fraudulent when it obviously means so much to so many. The rest of the building is very dark and sombre and we join the line that goes under the altar to pass the relics of St James before climbing high to embrace the central figure, though neither of us feel it’s appropriate that we do so. 

Outside it’s still warm and sunny and there are plenty of options to sit for a coffee so that’s what we do. I’m having a tough time on my feet today so sit out the museum out, picking up a famous Santiago almond tart and a tree decoration before returning to the front of the cathedral and  watching more pilgrims, I even get to wave to Graham as he crosses the galleried balcony across the top floor. 

The museum is extensive and includes access to several different area of the cathedral such as one of the towers as well as a range of exhibits. Probably the most expensive entry ticket yet and still only €4! 

We head back to the van and enjoy a drink in the cafe just by it. A coffee and a coke come with a biscuit and mini cake sweets and nuts …. Almost a meal! 

Then out of town a little to a private aire, getting late and it’s an easy option with a fantastic view over the city and the cathedral. There are a fair number of vans but loads of space and east to get settled. No one in the office but says to sort out payment tomorrow so that what we’ll do! 

Cumulative Mileage: 1199

Overnight: Private Aire at Santiago, P4N 15820 €15

Spending: coffees €2.80 coffees €4.80, tart €8.95, tree decoration €6, museum entry €4 drinks €4 aire €15, Showers €2