Day 33 - The Road to Bilbao

 

 It’s the first morning that’s started with wiping condensation for a while! It was more chilly last night than we’ve been used to lately and the windows are dripping. 

The sun is having a go at breaking through now and we appear closer to the river than I remember being last night!

 There are still cuckoos in earshot but woodpeckers too today. The dawn chorus was loud enough to wake me up! Nice to have some different birds too because of the river , first time we’ve seen a grebe this holiday! On a sunny day this would be divine, apple blossom , water, birdsong lots of wild flowers …even without the sun it’s pretty special! 

Before we leave I compress the load a little making some space in cupboards for extra shopping later and pulling some bits out for a ‘boat bag’ for tomorrow. 

The road out and over the river seems vaguely familiar. Like a less dramatic version of yesterday’s gorge drive it’s not until  we reach Valdenoceda that we realise we are retracing part of our route north last year and celebrate by returning to a garage wed been to then, where fuel is €1.28, our lowest yet. 

It’s a little diversion to get to Puentedey, it’s another one on the beautiful villages app and not far out of our way on a lovely road (once we have navigated a ridiculous Google route through the town). There’s no mistaking ‘Gods bridge’ when we reach it . Both of us gasp at once and pull over to take a look. 

 Some of the village sits on top of the natural tunnel created by the river, which we were expecting to see … just not the size of it. We drive round to the village car park and walk a circuit, following the path through tunnel, up through the village to the viewpoint and then wind back down to the arch and the car park. 

It certainly is a beautiful village, it’s incredibly well kept and really distinctive. It applied for the ‘most beautiful’ rating in 2022 when it was the only village to join the list and it’s justifiably proud, displaying its awards at every corner. 

There’s a cafe at the bottom close to the tunnel so we stop for a coffee. There are a lot of tourists around, probably more than we’ve seen anywhere else. Perhaps because the start of the Easter holidays? It’s so pleasant though that we go for a second coffee and by the time we finish it every table is occupied and a family hover and leap onto our table as we leave it. 

Before we get going again we drive a short distance to walk the path to the Cascada de la Mea.

It’s a narrow canyon, between high rocky walls and an easy but steepish walk to reach a really unusual waterfall ending on a huge limestone deposit with mineral lined pools below. It’s possible to walk behind the water which falls gently enough to be blown about by the wind and it’s hard to avoid the spray. No great hike and well worth the effort! 

Back at the van and still sort of heading north we pick a road that isn’t one we’ve used before and start off. Getting used to the roads and the views being great and nothing changes here either. Not really needing a stop but we see signs to the Ojos Guarenas and decide to divert on a research trip - another winding road high through pasture, at the top there’s a great panoramic view before the road winds back down past the cave church and underground caverns and back to our original road. An unnecessary but pretty diversion but it’s highlighted another area worth a return. 

 About half an hour away from the coast we drive past a small town called Balmaseda which is looking lovely in the sunshine and has tourist signs highlighting its bridge so we decide to stop and stretch our legs. 

Great decision, we manage to park just by the train station and walk down one side of the river as far as the medieval bridge, crossing it and wandering back along narrow streets to the main square. 

 The town has a nice feel, it’s getting ready for its live passion play later in the week and there are lots of young people around, presumably school has broken up. The town had been suggested previously as a stopover before the ferry , there’s an aire on the edge of town and the idea is appealing , though I’m keen to have a last night hearing the sea. Definitely worth bearing in mind for future trips though as it’s a good distance from the port and could be a good first or last night stop. 

We take the mountain road out of the town and up towards Castro Urdiales. Very much in cycling country now with inclines marked up for cyclist use and regular reminders to give cyclists a wide berth. 

As we reach Castro Urdiales I see a large Eroski store and get excited at the prospect of a shop for home, despite the fact that there’s a temporary ban on taking meat and cheese home. I spend too much on some bits for the girls and wine and olives but thankfully we’re restricted by the fact we still have to get in the van to sleep tonight!!

Shopping done we head to Mioño where we overnighted before our ferry last year. Not much has changed it’s a funny little spot but has a quirky charm. There are surfers out and dog walkers but it’s not busy. We had thought we might try a different spot but having looked at the options we plump for a spot very close to our last one. 

The weather is a bit changeable so it’s a quick turnaround then a last walk on the beach and up towards the carpark where there a couple of vans settling down. 

Back at our van it’s all peaceful until another van comes alongside and noisily pumps a lilo, then plays music so loud that Graham has to go out ask them to turn it down. It’s not long before the occupants have a blazing row and one walks off , with the van leaving to follow her shortly after. Never nice to see a dispute but we have peace at last and I get my last night listening to the sea after all.

Cumulative mileage: 1734

Overnight: Car park at Decido beach

Spending: Coffees and snack €4.80, Coffees, €3 unnecessary luxury food shop for home £170