Spain Day 4 - Zarautz - San Sebastian
Up to blueish sky and sun trying hard to shine . Turned van around before re-tracing Graham’s walk from the previous evening (or at least part of it as I decided not to do all the steps). It really is stunning coastline and by the time we returned to the van the sun was fully out and though cold the beach was beginning to look inviting.
However, as we’d already packed up, we resisted the beach and left as planned for the aire on the edge of San Sebastián.
The aire itself is an area of carpark close to the university with water and drainage but nothing else but at 5 Euro a night it was certainly popular and already quite full. Tucked in amongst the big boys again Wilf looks tiny but all feels very safe and it’s certainly convenient.
Short ride into town (bus 33, 1.85€ each way). Seafront is stunning. The old town is very attractive indeed. We had a good walk round the harbour and wandered out to see the famous seafront conference centre, The Kursal. Covered in curved glass panels and with a base made of slate which is splintered to successfully replicate driftwood it is really striking. The sea meets the river here and rough conditions means there’s quite a swell passing by as the river enters the town.
Back into the old town where we had a lunch of pinxchos and a glass of Rioja. Bill came to 21€. Bargain!
Bit more of a wander along the seafront … actually quite a wander - walking the length of the promenade some 3km or more to the base of Mount Igueda, location of a funicular railway (4.50€ return) which took us up to the top of the mountain with breathtaking views back across the bay. The funfair at the top is closed for the winter but no great loss as walking round the closed rides added to the atmosphere.
Back down on the funicular and walked the last little bit of the front to see the beautiful sculpture by Eduardo Chillida’s ‘The comb of the wind’ . Rough seas added to the atmosphere, really powerful stuff.
Stopped for a coffee at a neighbouring cafe, before walking to the seafront and back to the old town for more wine and nibbles. This time we braved the beach itself which is spotless and was a lovely way to end our walk, looking beautiful in the falling light.
Turned out we picked quite a day to visit as slowly we realised that there were an uncommon number of young men in black anoraks, not a local fashion statement but PSG fans in town for a UEFA cup match…. There was a heavy police presence wherever they went and by the evening we could hear them in the distance walking en mass to the match, with blue lights flashing alongside. Never saw more than 20 or so at a time ourselves but from the other end of the town it was sounding like a substantial group and quite daunting.
From the old town we found our way back to the bus stop and back to the aire , now packed with vans including some the size of buses…. Perfect stop for our purposes would certainly use again.
Miles so far 147
Steps today 21,250
Overnight: Municipal Aire £5 for 24 hours
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