Day 1 - Bilbao to Santillana del Mare

 Having filled up with fuel we headed straight to Puente Viesgo and the nearby caves. It’s an hour away on the motorway but we decided to take the ‘slow’ road and that doubles the journey time. We wind through villages and towns, initially on the coast, then turning inland. The first part of the journey (as far as Laredo) reverses the end of our last trip and it’s good to be reminded of some great stops. 


There are lots of beautiful houses which are something like alpine lodges scattered across the hillsides occasionally with added sheep, goats or cattle which add the the mountain village feel. We have a booking to visit the caves of El Castillo at 2.40 (booking made online ,€15 per person)  so theres no rush and time to enjoy the scenery , despite the occasional shower. 

 We are arrive early at Puente Viesgo which is a very attractive mountain village built up around an impressive spa. It’s a lovely place to wander around but everything is closed and the rain is falling fast!  




Its a little early for our visit but we head up to the cave visitor centre and use the car park to have lunch. 

When our time slot comes we have lucked out. Unusually we are the only two people booked to attend. Not only does this make it quieter, but between our minimal Spanish and the guides basic English we get a tour we largely understand rather than the Spanish one that we’d anticipated. Entering the cave through the small door it’s partially lit and the path is solid (though has plenty of steps!). I wasn’t prepared for the torchlight to show us a painting of a bison so quickly and it took my breath away when she revealed it. Further on there were numerous other paintings from a range of periods, many were ‘negative’ handprints outlined in sprayed ochre. Understandably no photography is allowed. The tour lasted about 40 mins in total and isn’t something we’ll ever forget- quite magical!

We decided to find somewhere to stay that we can use to get to Altamira museum tomorrow, as we want more information now, so choose a village called Santillana del Mare. 

Another lovely drive, not much more than half an hour, through pastoral settings and bypassing Torrelavega via a ring road filled with all the usual megastores. 

The village lives up to its reputation as one of the prettiest in Spain, with cobbled roads and medieval buildings. Feels like we shouldn’t drive on them but when we discover the aire is closed for refurbishment we rumble into the main car park where we park up for the night before making the most of the last of the light with a wander around the town. It’s a real treat and again many shops and restaurants are closed but there is some signs of life with tourist souvenir shops leading the way but also a few shops that suggest that summer at may bring wealthier visitors as well as coach parties.

Back at the car park we are parked alongside two other larger vans but it’s pretty empty otherwise aside from a couple of young children , one of whom cheekily asks for money but takes no for an answer without question. It’s getting very cold and the bed needs two blankets and a hot water bottle but it’s then very snug!

Mileage so far: 126 

Overnight: rear of main carpark (P4N 39330) no charge (paying period starts in two days time, then €10 for 24hours)

Spending:Fuel, Cave access £25.65, Supermarket £24.16

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