Day 12 - Muros De Nalon, Cudillero and Somiedo

 Well thankfully the rain stopped in the night and any flooding concerns were unnecessary. It was a quiet night and although we stirred when hearing the first trains, they were electric and really not noisy enough to prevent more sleep! The van alongside us last night had left at around 11, possibly due to worries abut the water and by the time we woke up the other van here had disappeared too. 

Somewhat confused by the locals taking a windmill for a walk but we’ve seen things that are more weird I guess. The town seemed quite small but had a lovely feel and we drove out along the waters edge until the river hit the sea where there was a great harbour wall and some sizeable waves to watch whilst I took a frustrating call from our new travel insurance provider.

Back in the car it was just a few miles to Cudillero, yet another on the most beautiful villages list. We entered the town via a ridiculous narrow and windy road which was only one car wide for most of its length, so anytime a vehicle came the other way one or both would have to mount the pavement. This time felt a bit Padstow. Pretty narrow and filled with restaurants. 

On reaching the harbour we pulled into a parking bay whilst G had a look around to decide which way we’d walk. He’s back in five minutes excitedly describing a Victorian tunnel which was built to divert the river through the town. It had an inviting footpath within it so had to be done! 

The river ran fast but the paths were easy and it was a fun experience. It made a great start to a small circular walk along its 300m length and then back through the town which was quiet, with most shops shut and few people in the restaurants but you could imagine what it would be like in high season. 

Back at the van I popped in to get something for us to eat whilst Graham went looking for a toilet, a police officer called in to point out that we were parked in resident parking, thankfully didn’t ticket us but pointed us in the direction of the port. A bit late we researched parking bay lines, as the bay we had been in was edged in green that was our clue! We know now! Parking in the correct place we realised had we gone directly to this area from the main road, we’d never have been forced down the tiny street through town. The Port Parking allowed you to look out over the sea wall but was further from the village, we watched the waves for a little whilst we ate then it was time to move on.

The weather is not looking quite so good this afternoon and we feel like a longer drive so we’re going to head inland to another national park. Somiedo is famous for its brown bear population and is about an hour and a half away from where we are. Not as famous as the Picos but has been recommended, and we can see there are a couple of open campsite possibilities. A quick stop first at a supermarket for bread and milk and frozen peas to ice my knee whilst we are on the road! It’s a lovely drive, at times going through lively countryside, often alongside swollen rivers and some quite spectacular gorges.

Exciting to see signs warning brown bears on the road but seems unlikely! 

When we arrive at Pola de Somiedo, the main village in the centre of the park, it’s about 6 o’clock and light is falling.  There are two campsites, one motorhome area which we can see is open and flat and looks quite wet, so we go to the hotel and asked to use the campsite behind it. It’s only been open for a week and there’s no one else here at the moment. We’re told to go wherever we like, again it’s quite wet and so we choose a little piece of land that’s actually the driveway to some other pitches. We are the only people at the campsite. It’s absolutely silent and really quite beautiful. 

The clouds are coming down on the top of the mountains but the rain has stopped and we have a little walk around the town which is closed up and very quiet. We get back to the van just in time for a little bit more rain and settle down to sleep under the trees with the water from them dripping on the roof, but that’s the only sound we can hear. This is probably quieter than any wild camping spot we’ve used. We are pretty certain we’re the only tourist staying in the whole village tonight. Even the hotel is empty.

It looks like the weather is finally going to start turning within 24 hours, based on what a lovely spot were in we decide we are going to have a ‘rest day’ tomorrow, get the washing done, tidy up and get ready for some sunshine!

Cumulative mileage: 583

Overnight: Camping Pomeda de Somiedo, Pola de Somiedo

Today’s Spending: supermarket £10.15 , souvenir for the tree €4.50, campsite €17