Day 5 - Covadonga


Having done all the van ‘admin’ and overindulged in the steaming hot showers it’s time to move on. It’s the first time we’ve woken to blue skies and we’ve decided to head inland whilst visibility is good and head for the Covadonga lakes. 

We are carrying a spare camping gaz bottle as when you can find them they are so much cheaper here. The receptionist at the campsite has recommended a place that’s only ten mins away to get a refill so we are going to try that first. As we cross the bridge in Ribadesella the sun is shinning and the river looks great so we divert to a riverside carpark to take a look on foot. The river is huge and heavily used by canoeists who are represented everywhere. It looks is great in the sun and the walk back across the bridge is worthwhile to take it all in. 

Back on the road and the route to the gas supplier retraces our way in yesterday. When we find it it appears our trip was wasted as they are awaiting deliveries later in the week. It felt like we could just u turn to get back en route but Google thinks differently and winds us through some hamlets that have roads only just wide enough for the van before putting us back on the road! 

Back past Ribadesella and just after we pass the bridge we see a huge ferreteria with gas bottle cafes outside. It’s in the process of closing up for lunch but they have our bottle for €19 (near £50 at home). So job done we are back in the road. 

 

It takes about an hour to reach Covadonga. It’s an impressive looking town with a huge church but we pass through heading to the lakes whilst it’s still sunny.

There is a ticket booth and barrier on the start of the lake route but no charge at the moment ( guessing as it’s low season?) so we drive the 18km or so with charge. It climbs steeply and is narrow in parts but there aren’t many cars passing us. There are stopping places on the way with great views and we get out at a couple of them. Just before the end of the road we pass the first of the two lakes , which is impressive but nothing prepares us for the next one. 

 Sitting under snow capped mountains and with spring flowers starting to show its jaw droppingly beautiful. 



 Graham has a bit of a wander and slips, landing in the mud whilst I make  a late lunch of cheese on toast with a mug of tea….meal stops don’t get better than this one! 




 

A post-lunch walk up the hill to get a higher viewpoint then we retrace our steps to Covadonga.

  It’s obviously a deeply important religious site and the pristine village centre appears to be entirely composed of church buildings. The basilica is really impressive with a walkway around it with great views of the surroundings. 



 There’s a really unusual chapel in the cliff reached down a long cave tunnel to a cave above a waterfall. It’s only small but a ‘proper’ chapel which appears prepared for a service with a seated congregation and a priest at the lectern. 
There’s also a convent and  back near the carpark we see a large group of nuns out for a stroll together. 

We drive away from Covadonga and to one of the summer car parks which allows overnight stops. It’s close to the road but beside a stream and when we orientate ourselves to face the water it’s all we can hear. There are three vehicles here… a coach built vw and a large converted horse box from Belgium. When the light falls it’s one of the darkest places I’ve been and the stars are incredible. Great stop! 

Cumulative Mileage: 246.8

Overnight: Covadonga P3 parking, free

Spending: Spare camping gas €19.30



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