Day 6 - A drive round the Picos

 Whilst it’s improving fast, my knee is still not up to much so we’ve had the map out and decided to do a longer drive than usual today to minimise walking. There seems to be a road heading north to a large reservoir from where we can loop back south to Potes, which we know has an aire type stopover. First we have to head back to Cangas de Onis to join the mountain road. We’d noticed a couple of the Astoria n grain stores on way to Covadonga yesterday but now we can see that there’s one at pretty much every house. Some appear to have been converted to living accommodation but most seem to have changed little in many years.

The road to the reservoir is long, narrow and stunning! The tops of the highest mountains are covered in snow and we drive alongside the river for much of the journey. It’s slower than Google predicted , partly due to the low speeds needed but also because we stop frequently to take in the views. Nearing the reservoir we drive down a narrow gorge with tunnels and sheer sides  and there are many places where my veritigi struggles with the drop. 

The reservoir itself is vast with multiple ‘fingers’ heading off  into adjacent valleys. We have to cross a number of viaducts before reaching the town of Riano where we park up for lunch. It’s really cold up here and soup is what’s needed! There are great views of the water, a small grain store and a monument made with bells from some of the many churches that were lost to the reservoir. Seems like a nice waterside town but we don’t look around too much before we get back on the road. 

The road back to Potes is more substantial but still only just wide enough for two vehicles and lacks crash barriers at times! Not long out of Riano we see a sign to Collado de llano , a viewpoint 2km up a very narrow, very precipitous road. It’s a bit scary, if we met someone coming the other way I’m not sure what we do and 2km feels like a long way, but it was well worth the effort when we get to the top. There is the most amazing view 360° of mountains and snow with a lovely carved statue of a bear sitting on the top. I walked up to the top wearing the crocs I’ve been travelling in, probably the first time crocs have walked in snow at 1700 feet! It’s really chilly and I retreat to the van to put the kettle on whilst Graham climbs a little higher. Whilst I’m waiting I’m pretty sure that saw a golden Eagle fly over the van, Graham missed that one!

Before heading back down the hill another car arrives, and we are grateful our journeys didn’t cross , it really is a bit more scary than I’m comfortable with even on my own. 

Back on the N road and a little further on there is another mirador looking out over the east of the Picos, it’s quite a view  and has a lovely bronze Chamois admiring it with us but after the last stop everything else seems quite tame.  

The road continues to wind down the valley, It’s easier driving on this side of the mountain and the landscape is much smoother with lots of cows and sheep around but it’s still high up and takes a long while to get down to Potes which is still at around 300m.

We arrive at Potes a really pretty village with an alpine feel, some medieval style colonnades and a big tower. There is a paid motorhome stopover here just beyond the village centre which has to be booked online and your code then opens a barrier. It’s a beautiful setting. You can see mountains from the van doors and it’s quite quiet, although there are 10 other vans here before we go to bed. We have a bit of a wander around the town and I buy a cowbell from a ferreteria that I can to turn into a Christmas decoration when I get home. Back at the van it’s warmer than it has been any evening so far and it’s pleasant to sit around and catch up on ‘vsnwork’ and work out what we’re going to do tomorrow. We have tickets to go to the caves at Ribadesella so it’s an early start but no other plans so well see what tomorrow brings.

Cumulative Mileage: 331.5

Overnight: Vanventure camper park, Potes €12

Spending: Aire €12, shopping £19.63 , cowbell €6

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